Spring commissioning – rudder and tiller

AIR BORN, the demo Sage 17, spends a lot of time on the water.  During the Colorado sailing season, about late May through late September, she is usually on Lake Dillon in a slip in the Dillon Marina.  When at the lake she is fully rigged and ready to sail.  When not at Dillon, and during the non-sailing season, AIR BORN is at other bodies of water taking part in regattas and messabouts.  This means her rudder and tiller are exposed and are weathered.  They also gain a number of dings and scratches from normal use.

As Spring has come I am touching up AIR BORN’s rudder & tiller varnish.  Sage 17 and Montomery 15 owners, as the rudder design is the same, will find this post helpful in doing rudder and tiller maintenance on their boats.

The first step is taking off the bungee cord that keeps the tiller in the horizontal position.  Remove this by untying one of the knots.

Untie one of the knotted ends of the bungee cord.

Now remove the pivot bolt for both the rudder and tiller.

Remove the rudder’s pivot bolt.

Remove the tiller’s pivot bolt.

Remove the three compression bolts & posts along the aft edge of the rudder cheeks.  Only the three AFT compression posts need to be removed.

Remove the three aft compression posts.

Slide the rudder & tiller out of the the cheek assembly.  The rudder & tiller are connected by the push rod.

Slide the rudder & tiller out of the cheeks.

There are compression posts in the the tiller’s and rudder’s pivot bolt holes.  They may fall out.  If they do this is not a problem.  During this maintenance task I keep AIR BORN’s compression posts on the removed bolt & nut.

There is a compression post in the rudder pivot bolt hole.

There is a compression post in the tiller’s pivot bolt hole. It has been removed in this picture and is on the table.

So you don’t loose any parts put the compression posts on the removed bolts.

The rudder and tiller are connected by the push rod.  Remove the ring dings and clevis pins from the toggle brackets to disconnect the push rod.

Disconnect the push rod from the toggle by removing the ring ding and clevis pin.

I leave the toggle bracket, tiller extension socket and TillerClutch on the tiller.  The same goes for the toggle bracket on the rudder.  I put blue tape on these fittings so they are not splashed with varnish.

This is all the rudder hardware that needs to be removed before you begin varnishing.

First I clean the tiller & rudder using Interlux 333.  Clean the wood before sanding so you don’t drive dirt, salt and anything else collected over the sailing season into the wood.  Now sand the rudder & tiller with 220 grit sandpaper.  If there is damage to the rudder and/or tiller finish I will sand that location with 120 and then with 220.  Be sure to ‘rough up’ the entire piece with 220 to assure you get a good bond between the old and new varnish.  The more old varnish removed by sanding requires more new coats of varnish to be applied.

I now follow the steps outlined in my posts on how new rudders and tillers are varnished.  See Varnishing Part 1 and Varnishing Part 2.

Rudder and tiller being varnished. The ‘extra’ tillers are new and being prepped for install on new Sage 17s. Note the color changes on the rudder. The darker area is protected from the sun by the cheeks and therefore hasn’t been ‘bleached’.

If the pieces were only lightly sanded with 220 I apply two coats of new varnish. If heavy sanding was required because of damage to the rudder or tiller I apply at least four coats of varnish.

After apply the necessary number of coats to get a nice new finish I allow the last coat to dry for at least two, usually three, days to assure it is fully cured.  Now put the tiller/rudder assembly back together in the reverse order it was taken apart.

When you install the compression and pivot bolts make the nuts ‘snug’ to start.  You will need to adjust how tight the compression posts and pivot bolts bolts to assure the assembly isn’t too loose (wiggles like an old car’s front end); or are to tight (making it difficult to raise and lower the rudder).  Adjustment hints are outlined in the Sage 17 owner’s manual.  NOTE: if the bungee cord is tied too lose the rudder will not stay in the up position.

– Dave

Varnishing Part 2

In this post I will outline my process for finish varnishing the Sage 17 rudders. (read part one here.)

After each rudder has received their undercoat of Interlux Jet Speed they are ready for at least three coats of Interlux Compass Clear.  Compass is a UV stabilized varnish, unlike Interlux Jet Speed, and will protect the wood from sun damage.

First the rudders are sanded, lightly, with 220 grit paper.  The slight amount of varnish you are sanding should come off in a fine dust.  If the varnish is coming off in ‘gooey balls’ it isn’t dry.  Stop, wait six hours, and see if the varnish is dry.

Use 220 grit sandpaper between each coat of varnish.

Use a tack rag to remove the dust and then wipe down the rudders with a shop towel damp with Interlux 333.

The varnish is applied using smooth strokes.  I work in 6″-9″ sections from one end of the rudder to the other.  Work quickly to assure you keep a wet edge.

Use smooth stokes while applying varnish. Work quickly to assure you keep a wet edge.

Once the top is varnished I run the brush along the edges.  I don’t wet the brush in varnish, I do this step with a ‘damp brush’ just after completing the last section of the rudder’s top.

Run the brush along the edges, or sides, of the rudder.

Don’t forget to bush along the bottom of the rudder.

Now I smooth the varnish on the top of the rudder.  I use long slow strokes going from bottom to the head of the rudder.

HINT:

• When using a foam brush it is important to go slow with these final strokes; if you move quickly the brush can ‘chatter’ or ‘hop’ along the surface.  If moving slowly the brush still chatters dip just the end of the foam chip into varnish to make it just damp.

If you look at the surface just after doing these final ‘finish strokes’ you will see slight brush marks.  These should settle out in a couple of minutes.

MORE HINTS:

• If the varnish has thickened in the can the brush marks may not settle out.  After this coat drys, sand out the marks and thin the varnish.  For Compass thin no more than 15% with Interlux 333.
• It is also possible to apply the varnish in too thin a layer, meaning applied to little varnish.  This will also leave brush makes.  After the coat drys sand out the marks and apply another coat just a bit more thickly.

At this stage of varnishing you have multiple coats to apply and it is not a problem to sand out a mistake as your skill at making a smooth finish coat improves.

Now use a shop towel that is damp with Interlux 333 to wipe the lower edge of the rudder sides.

Wipe along the bottom edge of the sides with a shop towel dampened with Interlux 333 to clean up any drips.

Allow the varnish to dry, flip the rudders over, and apply a coat of varnish.  I find that Compass takes about 6-8 hours to be dry enough to flip over the rudder and do the ‘back side’ (bonus the shop being in Golden, Colorado, is the low humidity and quick dry times).  to fully dry Compass takes about 18-24 hours.

Once both sides of the rudder are dry sand again with 220 grit paper, dust, clean and varnish.  A minimum of two more coats needs to be applied (giving a minimum total of six coats).

Now you inspect the rudder.  Are you happy with the finish?  If yes you are done.  If not sand, dust, clean and apply another coat.

HINT:

• For a super smooth final coat sand the prior coat with 400 grit paper instead of 220 grit.  Be sure to clean off ALL the dust before applying that final perfect coat of varnish.

Two rudders nicely varnished and ready to be installed into the rudder/tiller assembly.

That outlines to steps used here at Sage Marine to get the rudders ‘nice a pretty’.  The entire process takes a week … thought the time spent sanding and varnishing is only 20 – 30 minutes each day.

– Dave

Varnishing

Each Sage 17 comes with a solid mahogany rudder and a laminated ash and mahogany tiller made by JO Woodworks.  John does the finish varnishing for the tillers.  The rudders are shipped having only received a ‘spit coat’.

When the items arrive they are unboxed and inspected for damage.  The shipping company has twice damaged rudders and tillers so badly they were unusable.

rudders and tiller received from JO Woodworks.

After inspection the tillers are put into inventory.  The rudders need varnishing.

‘How to varnish’ is one of those topics that sailors can spend hours discussing and never come to a consensus.  In the end most agree that:

• sand wood with 220 grit between coats.
• before the finish coat, if wanting ‘super smooth’ sand with 400 grit.
• be sure to clean up sanding dust before varnishing.
• work quickly to assure you keep a wet edge.

After the above each person ultimately ends up developing their preferred system that meets both the wood protection wanted and the preferred level of finish.

My first step in finishing  is to sand (220 grit) all surfaces of the rudder.  sanding is important to assure each coat is able to ‘grip’ the prior coat.  Without sanding the the new coat can peal off.

Rudders have been sanded with 220 grit paper.

Once sanded I remove much of the dust using a shop towel. I then dust again using a shop cloth dampened with Interlux 333. I use 333 as it is compatible with the Interlux brand varnishes used (more on specific varnish products below).

As the 333 drys I open varnish can and slowly stir to assure it is fully mixed.  Don’t shake or stir quickly as this will introduce bubbles into the varnish. Another preference issue here concerning varnish: to use the can or pour through a filter into another container.

I apply varnish directly out of the can (gasp).  Yes this breaks a ‘rule’.  The reason it is recommended to use another container is to keep contaminants out of the varnish.  You filter the varnish to assure no crystallized varnish, or contaminants, go into your coats.  I leave it to you fine reader to choose how you wish to ‘containerize’ your varnish.

Which varnish to use?  Again, another topic that can be discussed with little agreement.  At Sage Marine for the first coats we use Interlux Jet Speed.  This varnish is great for doing multiple coats in a short time, it drys fast, which is needed to fill the wood’s service cells.  Jet Speed cannot be used as a finish coat as it has no UV stabilizers.

To protect the wood from UV damage, and stabilize the varnish against UV, we use Interlux Compass Clear.  In addition to UV protection this varnish has a GORGEOUS high-gloss finish.

How many coats?  As written above John at JO Woodworks has already applied a single layer of varnish.  I will apply two coats of Jet Speed and then at minimum three coats of Compass.  This results in there being at least six coats on the rudder.  I will apply more coats if the finish isn’t perfect.

OK, I am now ready to apply the first coat of Jet Speed.  Oh wait … what type of brush?!

I use disposable foam brushes when applying varnish.  Yes, I can hear those of you reading that disagree.  In general the recommended brush is a natural bristle high quality brush.  If this is what you want to do I agree.  I find the foam brushes work fine using a couple of tricks (more on this later).

As discussed above the first coats of Jet Speed are used to seal the wood and get a smooth finish.  Jet Speed is a thin varnish so I find it doesn’t need to be mixed with a thinner (in addition John has already put on a first coat).

At this time Sage Marine doesn’t have a ‘dust free room’ in the shop for varnishing.  This means I do this task in the reception/display space away from the boat shop’s dust.  The rudders have not yet had any holes drilled to accept hardware so they cannot be hung and allow me to varnish all sides at the same time.  So … I varnish one side at a time.

I apply the varnish in a thin coat working from one end to the other in 6″ to 9″ sections.  I work quickly to assure i keep a wet edge.

Once the top is done i then, without adding more varnish to the brush, varnish the edges of the rudder.

I now run the ‘damp with varnish’ brush from the bottom to the top of the rudder to assure the coat is spread equally/smoothly.

One final check is made to assure there are no skips or runs.  This is where good lighting helps.

I now use a shop towel dampened with thinner to wipe the lower edges of the rudder.  This is to assure no runs travel onto the ‘back’ side.

After a few minutes some areas will look dull where before they were shiny.  This is where the wood has soaked up the varnish.  This is normal to see during the first coats and why you apply multiple coats.

The first coat of Interlux Jet Speed has been applied. Looking closely you can see where some areas are not shiny.

 

It is now time to watch varnish dry.  With Jet Speed I can usually apply a coat on one side of the rudder in the morning and then flip the rudders over and coat the ‘back’ at the end of the work day.

Once both sides are varnished, and dry, I sand the rudder with 220 grit, clean, and apply a second coat.

I will continue this topic when I begin applying the finish coats in a few days.

– Dave